Growing peas for exhibition

Growing peas for exhibition

Ground preparation

Over the last few years my peas have been lacking a bit in vigour and size, so this year I decided to set up well prepared trenches. I seldom get my digging done at the recommended time, late autumn, and it was well into February before I began turning the garden over. My ground is very free draining and I think late manuring is not a bad idea.

I dug out a trench one spade deep and incorporated a good load of well rotted manure into this trench. This was then forked into the lower spit.

More manure was then put into the trench, dusted with bone meal at 4 oz per yard run (110 gm per m) and thoroughly mixed with soil from the trench. The resulting mound was allowed to settle.

In late April 8 foot (240 cm) canes were set up, in two rows about 20 inches (50 cm) apart, with about 9-10 inches (22-25 cm) between individual canes. I use heavy wire with V clips to support the canes.

The soil was then top dressed with vitax at 4 oz per sq. yard (110 gm per sq. m) and this was lightly forked in.

Seed and seed sowing

Perhaps the most important aspect of growing any show quality vegetables is obtaining the correct seed. I have grown my own selection of 'Show Perfection' for many years but last year, at Dundee, I was fortunate to obtain four pods from Dougie Hampton's winning National Championship entry. It was from those four pods that I grew my prize winning peas in 1996.

The seeds were sown in the first week of May, I prefer to sow individual seeds in drinking cups or small pots. The compost was riddled garden soil with some coarse grit added. The seeds were germinated in the greenhouse and, after a few days, transferred to a cold frame. I find that by using this technique I can ensure that only the strongest plants are put out. It is, also, easier to plant directly against the canes. Planting out time is usually weather dependent, but normally the first week of June is suitable - before the roots become pot bound.

Growing

After a few days the strongest shoot on each plant is selected (if there is more than one) and the first ring applied. It is then a matter of applying rings two or three times a week as growth is rapid and the shoots must be well supported. There is a school of thought that says rings should be around the main stem and the cane, while others prefer to put the ring round the leaf stalk and cane. The theory behind the latter is that the main stem does not break over the ring in high winds. However, I find that this is not really a problem if numerous rings are applied regularly and often during the growing season.

Over the next few weeks side shoots and tendrils are nipped out regularly and the plants are inspected on a regular basis to identify any problems such as insect or fungal attack.

I find that peas are delicate subjects when it comes down to spraying. One must be very careful that the spray solutions are tested on a few plants before the spray is applied to the whole crop. Once suitable insecticides and fungicides have been identified they can be applied 2-3 times during the growing season to prevent attack by the two mam problems - pea moths and mildew.

When the plants are about 3-4 feet (90-120cm) high the first flower buds start to develop. These are normally nipped out as I find they are ready before the first shows in mid August and they simply weaken the plant. One can normally expect that full development of the pod takes about six weeks from the time the flower first opens.

As the young pods straighten and develop any badly shaped or marked pods are removed immediately, I seldom have time to count the peas in the pod at this stage (hold the stalk up to the sunlight to do this) but if there are any pods with missing peas, or with few peas, they may also be removed. The theory behind removing pods is that it prevents the plant wasting energy growing unusable pods. Some growers actually restrict each plant to six or seven pods in the hope that greater size will be obtained.

If the ground has been prepared properly with sufficient fertiliser I do not think it is necessary to feed during the growing season, but water is obviously crucial to good culture. I water the rows on a weekly basis (weather dependent). As the pods develop the plants should never be allowed to dry out.

Finally, the growing tip of the plant is usually nipped out when they reach the top of the eight foot (240cm) canes.

Showing

I cut my peas as early as possible on the morning of the show and select pods of similar size, with no obvious marks or wrinkles. A good three inch (7cm) of stalk is cut which makes handling easier. The cut pods are laid on a bed of nettles and placed in a cool, dark shed. Later, at a convenient time the pods are checked for blanks by holding them up to a strong light. Any pods with missing peas are discarded and, hopefully, you end up with sufficient pods for the class - with a few spares.

The pods are now transferred to the show in a box of nettles, or if these are not available polythene can be used.

At the show check your schedule carefully and make sure you stage the correct number of pods. I like to see peas staged in a straight line rather than in wheel fashion. Hopefully, after judging you will be rewarded with a red card for your hard work.

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