Mint is this the most variable and versatile herb?

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Mint - is this the most variable and versatile herb?

At one time I grew no less than twelve different forms of mint, and I have grown several others over the years.

Not all these forms were useful in the kitchen, although many that would not be used in cooking were used to make herb teas. Some were grown simply as decorative garden plants, others for use in pot pourri.

Most herbs will produce the best quality foliage, best, that is, for its scent and flavour, in hot, dry conditions and poor soil. Mint, however, will do best in moist conditions with soil in good heart. It will also tolerate more shade than most herbs.

So what were my favourites out of the many I have grown? Or, to put the same question another way, which ones do I still grow?

For mint sauce three forms are pre-eminent. The common, bright green spear mint (also known as lamb mint), Mentha spicata, would be most people's choice. It certainly makes a good, well flavoured and well coloured sauce. Yet as a garden plant I would prefer the crinkle leaved variant, Mentha spicata var. crispata. It makes the same quality of sauce but the crinkled foliage makes it more decorative in the border. However, most gourmets consider that the statuesque form known as Bowles' apple mint produces the best flavoured sauce. But it does not make the most attractive looking sauce! This because the leaves of this tall form of Mentha rotundifolia are covered with hairs and took grey rather than green. Bowles' apple mint is not a plant for the faint hearted gardener. I have known a plant spread 2ft (60cm) each way in a year - and produce stems over 6ft (180cm) tall.

The other kitchen mint is peppermint, Mentha x citrata var. piperita. This comes in two forms, black and white. Black peppermint, with darkened stems, is usually deemed to have the better flavour.

Peppermint essence is made by distilling the stems and leaves. However, distillation is unlawful without a government licence. Nonetheless, a useful mild peppermint flavouring can be made by infusing the fresh leaves and stems. This can be made sufficiently strong to flavour peppermint sweets - and children love to try it.

For decorative purposes in the border there are two mints that are especially valuable. The first is pineapple mint, Mentha rotundifolia var. variegata. A small leaved, cream variegated plant, this is vigorous but not overwhelming - it makes good ground cover in semi shade. The foliage, lightly touched really does smell of pineapple, but crush it too hard and it will just smell of crushed leaf. It is well worth setting this alongside a path where passers-by can run their hands through it.

The second good border plant is the ginger mint, Mentha x gentilis. This is a very restrained plant by the standards of its relatives and spreads only slowly. It makes a good foliage feature with upright stems carrying yellow splashed green leaves. I would not, myself, describe the scent as ginger, but a pleasant spicy aroma is released when the leaves are gently crushed.

Not so decorative, but well worth a place in any garden, is the orange mint, Mentha x citrata. I call it orange mint, but the same hybrid also goes under the names of eau de Cologne mint (which best describes the scent of the leaves) and bergamot mint.

There appears to be no difference in scent between plants commonly offered under these three names and they all have mahogany green foliage. Clones offered as orange mint usually have rounded leaves while the other two normally have more pointed leaves. But there is little consistency between nurseries in this! Whatever the name, however, the plant is worth growing for its scented foliage which is useful in pot pourri.

I would also commend two low, creeping species useful in rockeries or amongst paving stones, pennyroyal, Mentha pulegium and Corsican mint, Mentha requienii. Pennyroyal has a strong, somewhat unpleasing scent, but has a use in the house - it repels fleas!. For this reason it was often included in the bunches of herbs and flowers carried by the aristocracy in mediaeval times.

Corsican mint, with very small delicate foliage, is pleasantly scented of peppermint.

The majority of herbs are remarkably trouble free. Mint, however, does suffer from a serious fungus disease, mint rust. This produces vivid orange blotches on the stems and leaves and makes the stems twist and distort. Traditionally this was controlled by burning straw over the plants as soon as the last leaves were harvested. Garden hygiene will keep the disease in check, remove and burn all stems and leaves in autumn. Otherwise spraying with a fungicide will be necessary in most years.

However, there are some mints that do not suffer from rust - those with hairy leaves derived from Mentha rotundifolia. Of those I have mentioned this only includes Bowles' apple mint and pineapple mint. Although I have never known pennyroyal or Corsican mint to be attacked.

PS. If you have not brought mint indoors to force for winter it is not too late. Lift some roots and lay the white rhizomes out in a seed tray of garden soil. Keep this warm and moist and young shoots will soon appear. Once the shoots appear they must be kept in the light

This article originally appeared in the Members Bulletin, the journal of the National Vegetable Society, which is sent quarterly to members. You can Join the National Vegetable Society here

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