Points About Root Vegetables You Already Know - or Should: Some Thoughts for Beginners

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Artichokes

Both Chinese and Jerusalem artichokes, will grow in almost any soil, preferably a moist one, although the better the soil the better the crop. Jerusalem artichokes grow to fifteen, even eighteen feet in a good year, so should be planted as a wind break, with posts either end and string or wire holding them in position, or along a fence or wall. Strong winds often blow them over or break them.

Although the tubers can be dug from September the size does increase if they are left until cold weather has returned the goodness to the roots. Jerusalem artichokes are fairly bulky and knobbly, although the cultivar 'Fuseau' is more regular in shape. Chinese artichokes are smaller, perhaps two inches long, and more evenly shaped, they have been likened to cricket bails. The plants, too, are much smaller, reaching only one or two feet. Their main enemies are slugs and woodlice. Both should be used freshly dug as they deteriorate rapidly in store.

Beetroot

There are basically three types, shapes, in cultivation, globe, cylindrical and long. Globe beet should be of tennis ball size and shape for kitchen and show. Some cultivars have flat tops with a rounded base. Cylindrical beet usually grows up out of the ground for some inches. Nicely shaped roots, say six inches long, are welcomed by the housewife as they are more easily sliced than the round types. Long beet are used as a hot cooked vegetable in the north, seldom in salads like the other two. They are more difficult to grow in the south as they need a continuous supply of moisture. The NVS leaflet on beet is a good buy.

Carrots

These are also divided into types by shape, long pointed, intermediate and "other". Long pointed carrots are usually grown for show in bottomless tubs or boxes of well sifted compost over double dug ground allowing the roots to go deep. A lot of care is needed to grow "big uns" this way. You must ensure they do not dry out and that they get regular feeding. The intermediate, similiar to the long but with a shorter body, is often planted in rows, the actual spot being bored with a crowbar. "Other" types include the stump-rooted, finger and ball cultivars. Stump rooted and finger types often get the box or barrel treatment which can produce some very uniform roots.

Celeriac

This is a type of celery grown for its swollen, globular root, shaped somewhat like a turnip or swede. Aim for roots four to six inches in diameter. Celeriac needs regular watering. Regular removal of the lower leaves while still green seems to stimulate the plant to swell for storing food. It can be sliced in salads or cooked as a vegetable like turnips. See the NVS leaflet "Celeriac and Celery".

Kohl Rabi

A brassica with a root that is really a swollen stem. The roots are best used when about the size of a billiard ball. Larger ones get stronger tasting and coarse. It can be cooked or eaten raw in salads. Beware of club root.

Parsnips

The most common problem with parsnips is that they are often difficult to germinate. Try sowing the seeds on moist flannel or blotting paper, as soon as the root appears transfer them to well mixed wall paper paste (fungicide and insecticide free). Place the mixture in a polythene bag, cut off one corner and squeeze the seeds into position along a prepared row. This technique can also be used for carrots. For large show roots use tubs or boxes as for carrots. Sow eight or nine inches apart and water regularly.

Potatoes

There are many ways of growing this most useful root-which strictly speaking is a stem. In a hole in the ground, in rows dug and manured at planting, in peat and soil filled boxes, tubs or large flower pots, under polythene, etc. In well manured soil seven pounds of seed potatoes will produce seventy pounds or more of good sized tubers, but just put into a hole the crop would be only two or three potatoes per plant.

The potato nematode (eelworm) can cause a lot of damage to crops and keeps the tubers to a very small size. If your potatoes are all small try eelworm resistant cultivars, there are a number available.

The ideal weight for show purposes is 200 grammes, a tuber of this weight should fit nicely into the palm of the hand. There are different shapes and colours, round, oval, long and kidney shaped, white, coloured, usually red or purple, or partly coloured. Schedules usually ask for a dish of white or of coloured (a partly coloured potato counts as coloured!). Clean tubers, free of scab or slug damage, shallow eyed and of uniform shape are needed for show. An NVS leaflet is available.

Radishes

These are usually sown as a catch crop in spring and summer. Winter radishes can be sown in August and September and will stand early frosts. Radishes are subject to club root so should be kept with turnips and swedes in the brassica area. For spring you have a lot of turnip shaped, round and oval cultivars as well as long kinds. For later sowings of winter radishes you have 'Black Spanish', either long or round, 'China Rose', a nice red/pink coloured root which I consider one of the best and a number of long, white (mainly Chinese or Japanese) cultivars.

Salsify and Scorzonera

These long rooted vegetables are an acquired taste and are not extensively grown in this country. Grow them as you would grow parsnips.

Swedes

Another crop subject to club root (the cultivar 'Marian' is fairly resistant), which should be grown in the brassica area. Seeds should not be sown before late May in the south, a little earlier in the north. Try and sow in a row running north south so that the sun is not on one side all the time. If this is not possible they should be sown where they will be partly shaded half the day. Give a lime dressing along the row when sowing.

Turnips

Another root brassica subject to club root. Dress with lime when sowing and, as with swedes, sow north south if possible. There are yellow, white, green and red cultivars, some ball shaped, some flat with a few long types. Most are used cooked but a few can be used raw in salads, sliced or coarsely grated.

Conclusion

Most roots benefit from a sprinkling of superphosphate in their rows when seeds are sown as this encourages root formation, especially in the quicker growing crops.

All plants are like humans, they like to eat and drink. See that they get plenty to drink especially in dry weather and encourage them with some nitrogen in their early days (for leaf growth) and some potash as they mature and ripen (this last helps produce sturdiness, colour and strength).

This article originally appeared in the Members Bulletin, the journal of the National Vegetable Society, which is sent quarterly to members. You can Join the National Vegetable Society here

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